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Continued from "Timing belt replacement"

Inspecting the head. Turn the head upside down (see Picture 1), while turning the camshaft sprocket watch all your valves and make sure they open and close properly. You can also use break cleaner and spray the top of the valve when in closed position. Watch if the cleaner is leaking through the closed valve. If not proceed to next valve. In our case valves were bent so bad that you could see through the gap when in closed position (see Picture 2).

To remove the valves you will need a special tool called Valve Spring Compressor (see Picture 3). The name says it all. By compressing the spring you will notice that the 2 half rings around the valve will open (see Picture 4), remove them and release the compressor. You may now remove the spring and your valve is ready to come out. Valve shouldn’t give you any trouble coming out, simply push it through with your thumb. You will also notice that the valve sits on a retainer (see Picture 5)(almost looks like a thimble with a hole in the middle). When you purchased the head gasket kit it should have come with a set of these as well. A retainer is easily removed by grabbing it with a pair of pliers and couple of gentle twists. Remove any dirt and oil from underneath the retainer and place a new one in its place. To install new valves simply reverse the above steps.

It is also recommended that you check the head for flatness. Especially if overheated surface will warp and not seal properly. If necessary take the head to machine shop and have it planed (resurfaced), any local machine shop will do this for you (approx. $150)

Removing the old gasket. You should purchase a gasket removal (Canadian Tire carries different types for around $7), usually comes in spray. Carefully spray the area where the old head gasket was, let sit for 10-15 minutes. Using a plastic or wooden scraper (not metal scraper) gently remove any residue on the bottom of the head and top of the engine block. For any stubborn place repeat the process. You can now replace other gaskets that came with the kit (air intake, exhaust manifold, etc.) You should now be ready to start putting everything back together.

Place the new head gasket on the engine block, make sure it sits properly and in the right position. Place head on top of the engine, again make sure it’s placed properly before inserting the bolts. Bolts need to be tightened not only in a certain pattern (see Picture 6)but also using the correct torque. This information is also provided with the kit. For Chrysler Neon pattern is in four steps.
Step 1. You need to torque all 10 bolts at 25 ft-lbs
Step 2. Now torque all 6 center bolts to 50 ft-lbs and 4 corner bolts at 35 ft-lbs.
Step 3. Torque all 6 center bolts to 50 ft-lbs (again) and 4 corner bolts at 35 ft-lbs (again)
Last Step – you need to tighten all 10 bolts in the given sequence an extra ¼ turn (90%)

You are now officially finished with the head and you may begin the process of putting everything back together. One more of thing to add is the timing belt itself. You need to position it properly. There is a notch on the bottom crankshaft and on the casing of the engine block (they have to mach), also there is a notch on the top camshaft sprocket and a notch on the rear timing belt cover (they have to match as well). Both intake and exhaust valves on piston 1 have to be in the upper (closed) position as well.


Things to watch for after the project complete. Keep an eye on your oil level. Watch your antifreeze level as well. Watch the exhaust coming out of your muffler, if your pistons or rings are damaged your car will begin smoking. The thick white smoke (and it actually has a sweet smell to it) means you’re burning antifreeze. Yes, it is possible that your gasket is leaking on the inside and antifreeze is getting inside the chamber and you’re burning it. Also keep an eye on the actual head gasket, it is fairly easy to see it in the front of the engine (for the back use a small mirror), check occasionally for leaks.

 

Picture 1 - View of the head turned upside down

 

Picture 2 - Bent valve (left)
new valve (right)

Picture 3 - Valve spring remover/compressor

 

Picture 4 - Rings around the valve coming out after compressing spring

Picture 5 - Valve retainer removed

 

Picture 6 - Head tightening sequence

 
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